Electrician Services in Philadelphia, PA

It depends on the job, not an hourly guess. A new outlet costs far less than a 200 amp service upgrade that also needs a new meter base and cable. We look at the work first and give you a written price, so the number holds.

Most panel changes, new circuits and rewiring jobs need one. In Philadelphia the permit comes from L&I. In Lower Merion, Upper Merion, Wayne and Berwyn it comes from the township. We file it and meet the inspector.

A load calculation answers that. A Level 2 charger needs a dedicated 240-volt circuit sized at 125% of the charger's rating. If your service falls short, a load-managed charger or a panel upgrade solves it.

For most homes, yes. Furnace boards, appliances and TVs all run on electronics that surges can damage, and a panel-mounted device also protects hardwired equipment that plug-in strips can't reach.

Yes. After we see the job, you get a written quote with the full scope and price. Work starts only after you approve it.

The new amperage, whether the meter base and service cable need replacing, grounding work, the permit and PECO coordination. Moving the panel to a new spot adds wiring time too.

Not for the work on your quote. If we open a wall and find a new problem, like a burned splice, we stop, show you and price it before doing anything extra.

Ask for the license number, then look it up with the Philadelphia Department of Licenses and Inspections. Ours is #37352, and the city requires us to show it on our ads.

We correct whatever the inspector flags and book the reinspection. An ICC Certified Commercial Electrical Inspector on our team checks our work against the code before the visit, which keeps surprises rare.

Yes. Send us the report. We repair each electrical item to the NEC and give you a written list of what we corrected for your buyer or agent.

Most single-family panel swaps take one working day. A service upgrade that needs PECO to disconnect and reconnect the meter can take longer, based on PECO's schedule.

Not always. A load calculation under NEC Article 220 shows what your home uses and what you plan to add. Homes adding central AC, a heat pump or an EV charger often need it.

In most homes, yes. Fuse boxes often supply 60 amps or less, they are easy to overfuse with the wrong size fuse, and many buyers and insurers ask for an upgrade.

Yes, when the main service has room for it. A subpanel helps with additions, finished basements and garages that need more circuits.

Dimming when a big appliance starts often means an overloaded circuit or an undersized service. Flicker across the whole house can point to a loose service connection, which needs an electrician soon.

Yes. We fish new cable through walls, attics and basements and cut small access holes only where needed, which keeps plaster damage low.

Grounding gives fault current a safe path, so a breaker trips instead of leaving metal parts live. It also gives surge protectors somewhere to send extra energy.

Maybe not. If your ground wire clamps onto pipe that now turns into plastic, it may no longer reach the earth. We test it and add ground rods when needed.

Turn off that circuit or the main breaker if you can do it safely, then stay away from the area and call us. If you see smoke or fire, get out and call 911 first.

The metal contacts inside have worn out and no longer grip the plug. Loose contacts can heat up, so we replace the outlet instead of leaving it.

A GFCI cuts power when current leaks to ground, which protects you from shock. The NEC requires GFCI protection in kitchens, baths, laundry areas, garages, unfinished basements and outdoors.

They have shutters that open only when both plug prongs push in together, so kids can't push in keys or pins. The NEC requires them in homes.

A warm outlet can mean a loose connection, a worn receptacle or too much load on the circuit. Stop using it and have it checked.

Hardwired chargers often allow higher power and avoid outlet wear. A NEMA 14-50 outlet lets a plug-in charger move with you if you sell the house.

Yes. We use outdoor-rated equipment, run exposed wire in conduit and mount the charger where cars and weather won't damage it.

It cuts damage from nearby strikes and utility surges, but nothing fully stops a direct hit to the house. Good grounding makes the device work better.

Yes, for TVs and computers. The panel device handles the big surges, and plug-in strips add a second layer at the outlet.

Yes. Most brands use a companion switch for the second spot. We trace your existing wiring so both locations work.

Yes. We run a C-wire from the furnace or air handler, or install an adapter made for your thermostat model.

Each camera needs a power source: an outdoor-rated outlet, a low-voltage supply, or one network cable that carries both power and data, called PoE.

Yes, with IC-rated fixtures built to touch insulation. Airtight models also stop warm air from leaking into the attic.

The dimmer and bulbs often don't match. We install a dimmer listed for LED loads and set its low end so the lights dim smoothly.

Yes. We bypass or remove the ballast and install LED tubes or new LED fixtures, which ends the buzzing and flicker.

A short description of the problem, photos of your panel and the work area, and any inspection report. That helps us arrive with the right parts.

Yes. We hold City of Philadelphia electrical contractor license #37352, issued by the Department of Licenses and Inspections. The city requires contractors to show that number on their ads, which is why you see it on this page.

Watch for breakers that trip often, a warm panel cover, buzzing, or lights that dim when the AC starts. A fuse box, a Federal Pacific or Zinsco panel, or a 60 or 100 amp service with plans for an EV charger or heat pump also points to an upgrade.

Not for the long run. It has no ground wire, its insulation turns brittle with age, and some insurers ask owners to replace it. We test what you have and quote a room-by-room or whole-house rewire.

We work in Philadelphia, Lower Merion, Upper Merion, Wayne and Berwyn, including Ardmore, Bryn Mawr, Gladwyne, King of Prussia, St. Davids and Strafford. Our office is at 145 W Swedesford Rd in Wayne.

Two jobs that sound alike can be very different. A panel swap may also need a new meter base, cable or grounding, and we can only confirm that on site. Photos help us give you a rough idea first.

Your written quote lists the permit and inspection as part of the job, so you see the full cost before you say yes.

We do. The licensed contractor doing the work files the permit with L&I or your township and schedules the inspection.

An inspector checks that the work meets the National Electrical Code and local rules. We meet them on site, answer their questions and fix anything they flag.

Yes. Lower Merion and Upper Merion issue their own. Wayne spans Radnor, Tredyffrin and Upper Merion, and Berwyn spans Tredyffrin and Easttown, so your street address decides which office handles it.

The National Electrical Code is the national safety standard for electrical work. Cities and townships adopt an edition of it, and inspectors use it to judge new work.

Yes, for part of the day. We tell you the shutoff time ahead of the work so you can plan around it.

Both brands have a long record of reports of breakers that may not trip during an overload. Home inspectors flag them often, and we recommend replacing them.

It adds up the power your lights, appliances, heating and cooling need, following NEC Article 220, to show whether your service is big enough. We run one before quoting any upgrade.

A breaker trips to stop wires from overheating. The cause can be too many loads on one circuit, a short, a ground fault or a worn breaker. Repeated trips need a real fix, not another reset.

Common signs include knob-and-tube or cloth wiring, two-prong outlets throughout, warm switch plates, frequent trips and scorch marks. Many older Philadelphia homes show several of these at once.

Most families do. We work room by room and restore power to finished areas as we go, so the house stays livable.

Bonding ties metal water pipes, gas pipes and other metal systems to your grounding system. That keeps them at the same voltage, so nobody gets shocked during a fault.

It's a dedicated connection point near your service where cable TV, phone and some solar systems bond to your electrical ground, as NEC 250.94 requires.

Yes. We are an EPA Lead-Safe Certified Firm (NAT-F164781-2). When our work disturbs paint in a home built before 1978, we use lead-safe work practices to contain the dust.

Yes, the right way. We connect a ground where one exists or can be run. Where it can't, the code allows GFCI protection with a "No Equipment Ground" label.

An AFCI watches for arcing in your wiring, a common cause of electrical fires, and shuts the circuit off. Newer code editions require AFCI protection for most living areas.

It's two wires under a screw made for one. The connection can loosen and overheat, and home inspectors flag it often. We fix it with a pigtail or a new circuit.

The NEC sizes it at 125% of the charger's rating. A 40 amp charger needs a 50 amp circuit, and a 48 amp charger needs a 60 amp circuit.

A standard 120-volt outlet adds only a few miles of range per hour. A Level 2 charger on 240 volts charges several times faster, enough for most daily driving overnight.

Yes. A new 240-volt circuit needs an electrical permit from L&I or your township, and we file it for you.

A Type 1 device can mount on the line side of the main disconnect. A Type 2 goes on the load side, usually at the panel. We pick based on your setup.

Most smart switches stay powered even when the light is off, and they need a neutral to do that. Many older switch boxes don't have one, so we add it.

The old chime transformer often can't supply enough voltage. A properly sized transformer usually fixes it for good.

Yes. We check that each device suits your wiring, then mount it, power it and connect it to your Wi-Fi.

It depends on ceiling height, room size and what you use the room for. We plan the layout on paper first so you get even light without dark corners.

Yes. Canless LED wafer lights need only the opening for each light, and we fish the wiring from fixture to fixture.

For most homes, yes. LEDs use at least 75% less energy than incandescent bulbs, according to the U.S. Department of Energy, and they last far longer.

Call (267) 977-2106 or use the booking form at the bottom of this page. Tell us what's going on, and we'll call back to set a time.

Yes. We cover floors, keep dust down and clean the work area before we leave.